CONTRIBUTOR

Dave Day

Dave Day

Surfer/Author

Learning to surf in the sunset of life. Image: Lucas Tozzi

Surfing Reflections in the JC Penney Fitting Room Mirror

9 min read Oct 3, 2013

The Granite State’s quiet distinction is that it has the shortest coastline of any state in the U.S. Just maybe it’s the paucity of shredable breaks that builds pride and seashore stewardship among New Hampshire surfers.

New Hampshire: Savoring Surf on the Shortest Shoreline

8 min read Aug 14, 2013

You might be tied to the “grommet pole” in the car park, force-fed booze, stripped, smeared with excrement, whipped with leashes and left overnight. You, the “fekkingfaggottyfaceddickheadturdeatingbutthole” had, after all, violated the unwritten rules of etiquette, failing to recognize the “ownership” of this particular surf break.

Surfing Sacred and Surfing Profane

14 min read Mar 25, 2013

My Totally Sick Wetsuit Sesh

5 min read Mar 12, 2013

Surfing at Seventy

12 min read Dec 8, 2012