12 Reminders of How Hard it is Not to Smile While Surfing
Who doesn't smile while surfing? Seriously, that should be prohibited.
Stephanie Gilmore at P-Pass. This is one of those moments that just happen. The rain stopped, the clouds parted and the sun burst through just as Steph took off….she pulled into a nice little barrel and as she came out the lip flared…The delight on her face is genuine, this is not her working the camera, she didn’t even know that I had this shot until later. Photo: Richard Kotch
Michel Bourez, Tahiti: This was my first time inTahiti, and I purposely wanted to avoid the circus. I went months before the comp, and I was lucky enough to stay with the Bourez family. Their hospitality was incredible. Domenic Mosqueira was already in the water. He's a local and super talented humble photographer (you can see him in the top right) which is always nice to come across in the water. As far as some of the shots that have come out of this place over the last few years, it won't even rate a mention, but for me, this was the first wave I ever shot at this location. I am pretty sure my smile was as wide as Michel's when I saw the the results. I spent the next ten days with the locals and I must say I have the utmost respect for how they go about their surfing and lives – inspirational. Photo: Russell Ord
The best thing about this isn't the wave or the turn, it's the smile. Photo: Mike Coots
The late Sion Milosky at Pipe last season just before his untimely death. This morning was just epic. There was only a few of us out there and Sion was really stoked after this wave. He was paddling back out with a huge grin. Id only met him this morning and he was super cool and happy. I know he is sorely missed. Photo: Nate Smith
On the beach, I witnessed several fabled characters that you might not have wanted to even make eye contact with a few years ago who are now sporting radiant smiles with children in tow. Apparently fatherhood seems to have had a tempering effect on tempers. I even overheard one particularly infamous enforcer lamenting about how people on the North Shore these days are more prone to use their fingertips than their fists "...nobody fights here anymore. These social media kids all just talk shit and brawl with each other online..." Which is worse, I pondered to myself. I guess it all depends on your perspective - a fat lip will heal, but a nasty Instagram comment lasts forever. Photo: Justin Jay
Occy at Pre Dawn Cloubreak just styling. I'm happy Toby Martin heckled me to get out of bed this morning. I do love my sleep. Photo: Nate Smth
A picture may be worth 1,000 words, but this happy punter still looks speechless. Photo: John Barton
I don't know Kelly personally, but there's a cool little story behind this image of how I got him to smile and make eye contact long enough for me to take this photo. Ask me in person sometime. Photo: Robb Wilson
Have you ever frowned before, during or after getting barreled? If so, you’re most likely in the minority. Actually, not smiling, especially frowning, is a mannerism directly antithetical to surfing in general. Who doesn’t smile while surfing? Seriously, that should be prohibited. It’s just about the most fun you can have on planet earth, after all.
Everyone from Kelly Slater to Alana Blanchard to Sunny Garcia to Steph Gilmore can be found here flashing their pearly whites. Whether they’re exiting a barrel or simply paddling out, they’re all outwardly enjoying their session, which is what it’s all about. We hope these make you smile too.