sunny
On the beach, I witnessed several fabled characters that you might not have wanted to even make eye contact with a few years ago who are now sporting radiant smiles with children in tow. Apparently fatherhood seems to have had a tempering effect on tempers. I even overheard one particularly infamous enforcer lamenting about how people on the North Shore these days are more prone to use their fingertips than their fists "...nobody fights here anymore. These social media kids all just talk shit and brawl with each other online..." Which is worse, I pondered to myself. I guess it all depends on your perspective - a fat lip will heal, but a nasty Instagram comment lasts forever. Photo: Justin Jay
Have you ever frowned before, during or after getting barreled? If so, you’re most likely in the minority. Actually, not smiling, especially frowning, is a mannerism directly antithetical to surfing in general. Who doesn’t smile while surfing? Seriously, that should be prohibited. It’s just about the most fun you can have on planet earth, after all.
Everyone from Kelly Slater to Alana Blanchard to Sunny Garcia to Steph Gilmore can be found here flashing their pearly whites. Whether they’re exiting a barrel or simply paddling out, they’re all outwardly enjoying their session, which is what it’s all about. We hope these make you smile too.