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This is our good friend Swilly at P-Pass. To say that surf photogs tend to have “unique” personalities would be an understatement! He is a classic. The ultimate Pommy/Aussie pirate! I remember a few years ago when Mick Fanning came to Pohnpei with Swill, I was just starting to get a few shots run in magazines and was really amped on shooting as much as possible. Everyone was talking about the life of a pro surf photog, and Mick looked at Swilly then turned to me and said, “So you want to end up like this? You're f<#@ed!!! Haha!” Photo: Richard Kotch
What’s that saying? “Hate to see you go, but love to watch you leave,” right? Usually in reference to humans with anatomically perfect butts, that phrase can also be applied to these waves. The waves featured here are all aesthetically perfect, and watching their crystal clear, perfectly sculpted walls roll by is a shame in the moment. However, when that moment is captured on camera and we get to enjoy that frame frozen in time, we get these.