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It’s laughable that this picture of Bob McTavish, just a snapshot taken in 1965 or ’66, would resonate with so many people, so many years after it was taken. The totally empty break is a bonus of course (although you’d have thought that I might’ve waited for a better set to come though) and John Mantle’s old Holden does no harm on the nostalgia index. The break is National Park at Noosa Heads in Queensland, and I was loyal to the friends who’d taken me there originally and swore me to secrecy. The first story I published with pictures from there was titled ‘Rincon is where you find it.' Photo: John Witzig
People love staring at waves, because waves are beautiful. When was the last time you saw someone staring at a soccer field when there was no one running around kicking a ball? Big waves have that terrifying beauty, while small waves are just pretty and serene. Put someone on a surfboard on top of those waves, and you have a recipe for splendor. Or in this case, a recipe for 82 of them.