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Surfer contemplating whether it’s worth it to run back to the truck and put on the 5 mil. Photo: Robert Siliato
People love staring at waves, because waves are beautiful. When was the last time you saw someone staring at a soccer field when there was no one running around kicking a ball? Big waves have that terrifying beauty, while small waves are just pretty and serene. Put someone on a surfboard on top of those waves, and you have a recipe for splendor. Or in this case, a recipe for 82 of them.