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A Question Posed from Purgatory

And so here I sit, amid a cacophony of disembodied voices, echoing off marble and tile. What does one do to pass the time in these places that make our world so small?

What do you do when you're staring at this? Photo: Haro

And so here I sit, amid a cacophony of disembodied voices, echoing off marble and tile. There is something nice about airports: maybe it’s the faceless anonymity that every person in them enjoys. Maybe it’s the ever-present anticipation of going somewhere, going anywhere.

There are, however, much better places to spend a night. I’m currently sitting in the Vancouver airport, staring at a giant green statue of what appears to be a large frog in a straw hat paddling a canoe. It is battling a giant bird of some kind. I think it’s supposed to be an eagle. There also looks to be a lizard sticking his tongue out in the bottom of the canoe while trying to avoid being squashed by the frog in the straw hat. It’s an interesting statue, but I don’t want to spend the night under it.

I’m on my way to Nicaragua. My bag is beside me, already smelling slightly odd, although I washed my clothes before I left. I have a brand new surfboard, still encased in the bubble wrap it came to my house in, still wearing its protective cardboard sleeves, waiting for wax and warm water.

It – and I – will have to wait one more day, though. I showed up at 5 am this morning with bells on, eyes bleary and red-rimmed with the effects of a late night in an unfamiliar hotel and too much wine. At the gate I am informed there is a problem with my standby ticket. A mismatch of some kind, they say. They will not go any further, and until it is figured out, neither will I. I am told by a dead-eyed, soulless agent (this person clearly does not care about my plight) that I need to call an employee phone number, because my standby ticket has been purchased by my aunt, who rides the friendly skies in a tailored blue skirt and a perfectly styled french-braid, handing out pretzels, soothing crying babies and generally averting disasters in a steel tube 35,000 feet above the dirt.

I am not an employee, I tell her patiently, so there is no point in me calling this number. Of course, I am convinced, and spend just over an hour on hold, listening to an extremely cheerful (despite being automated) lady telling me about how wonderful their airline is. I can barely hear the final boarding call for my flight over her cheerfulness. Then I am disconnected, and I have missed my flight. With bloodied knuckles, I leave the phone with its freshly cracked pane, and feeling slightly less patient than before, I make my way back to the desk to confront another person who has no idea what is happening. Here I am told that my ticket is fine, and there is no reason I should’ve missed my flight. This is not helpful, given the fact that I have, in fact, missed my flight.

And so I call my aunt. Everything is fine, she tells me. I will simply be re-booked on the same flight then next day. I smile, relived. Thank you, auntie.

But now comes the question of what to do for 20 hours in a giant shiny box with brushed windows and pumped-in, dry-as-dust air. Do I sit in a straight-backed chair, feeling my eyes and sinuses shrivel up until I am a snorting, squinting hunchback? Do I sit at the bar until I am a snorting, squinting hunchback? Do I sit and watch the arrivals, hugging and happy, meeting their loved ones with laughter and tears? How long can a man live off Manchu Wok and burned Starbucks coffee?

So here is a question posed from this purgatory: I’d like to know what all you intrepid surf travelers do to pass the time in these places that make our world so small in between destinations . Give a brother a hand and some ideas, please. I’m hoping that the comments section below will attract some exciting options that would be useful to a stranded traveler. Because, after all, I still have two more stops to make before I get to where I am going.