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Shane Dorian from the Banzai in 2012. It's obviously not the gnar shot everyone one is after from Hawaii, but it represents more of the scene there for me. I decided I had to go to Hawaii at least once and why not during the Superbowl of surfing. This was the morning that Pipemasters started and all da boys were out. It was so incredible to see everyone surfing so well. It was even more magical to feel Pipe break. There's really no other way to describe that wave. I'm getting psyched just thinking about it, picturing it bend, feeling its pull. As you can see, there's another camera in the frame. I believe that's Jeff Flindt and another photog on the inside ducking under this one. So nothing nuts here, but everyone's intro to Hawaii is a milestone. I haven't been back yet but the thought of Pupukea Grill alone is plenty enticing. Photo: Ryan Struck
My career is still growing, and no single image has really excelled my progress more than any other. I’ll never be someone anyone needs in this industry; there are hoards of other people out there with a camera. Instead, I just aim to show surfing in a different light.
I’m forever a student of light and still reaching further to get a better grasp of this visual journey I’ve undertaken. I don’t want to give the impression that having your photos run in a magazine is the main goal, although I used to think that for a time. Really, having your images run doesn’t mean much. I don’t need street cred and the pay won’t support me. I have discovered that I’m not out to prove anything anymore, and I don’t need the surf media to validate me as a photographer. I do love surf photography though. I love it with all my heart. I enjoy approaching it with a critical eye to make the best image possible and am always trying to succeed. These images and captions may be more anecdotal than career progressing. Hope that jives well with you all.