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3. Everyone who comes in looks back to convince themselves if this is real, or if they’re having the best dream of my life. During a sizeable swell, Uluwatu is a large playing field; from Temples to Race Tracks to Outside Corner, there are plenty of waves to go around. From this perspective, the cave entrance looks large, but when the swell is up, it creates strong currents and with extremely high tides, making it seems very small. You miss it, you fight your way back out, catch another and aim for it again…which isn’t always a bad thing. Photo: Mark Wilson
The North Shore of Oahu is the mecca of surfing, but I think every surfer should make the pilgrimage to the other holy land of surfing: Bali. It’s known as “The Island of the Gods,” and in my honest opinion, it should be high on every surfer’s list of destinations. With all the surf camps located in remote locations and the dozens of boat charters to choose from, Bali offers so much to visiting surfers. The reason I chose Bali, other than the surf, was the captivating Balinese people and their culture. Away from the surf, Bali is a tropical paradise steeped in culture and tradition. Even with all of the growth from tourism, the Balinese carry on and allow outsiders a peek into their world.