Four Firing Seasons in New Jersey: From Trunks to 5-Mil Wetsuits
When it’s on, New Jersey is one of the heaviest beach breaks in the world, and it often turns world-class during the late fall and winter months.
Simplicity. This picture defines the simple perfection and world-class waves we can get here in Jersey. However, patience is key. Photo: Thomas Larney
USA perfect peak bowl. If only it looked like this every day in NJ. This shot was taken in early spring, when the water was still frigid and the air temperatures were starting to warm up. Spring is super inconsistent, but when it’s on, it’s on. Thomas Larney
Randy Townsend boosting. Randy Townsend is my favorite surfer to shoot with. Whether it’s two foot or head high onshore slop, Randal always seems to find that section to launch. And 99% of the time he sticks it. He’s been killing the game for over 20 years, and he’s not showing any signs of slowing down. Thomas Larney
Conor Willem never-ending rail. LBI heavy hitter Conor Willem getting ready to arch some rail work into a never-ending left. This day was what some of the local legends are calling the best June swell in Jersey in recent memory. Thomas Larney
Winter dawn patrol. For as brutally cold winter gets here in NJ, to a hardcore northeast surfer, it’s the best time of the year. Here’s a common dawn patrol winter view. Thomas Larney
First of fall. Fall dawn patrols are my favorite. The water is still warm, the weather nice, and the only crowds you usually have to worry about are the fisherman. Thomas Larney
Conor WIllem, summer bomb exit. Conor, in my opinion, is the best barrel rider in New Jersey. Here he is exiting an absolute gem during the evening of that epic June day. When it’s below freezing and maxing out in the middle of winter, you’ll find Conor pulling in as deep as he can, and most of the time getting shot out, leaving you scratching your head in awe asking yourself, “How the hell did he make that?” Thomas Larney
Matt Rinck deck rail. Matt is an Ocean City ripper who makes the trip north whenever the conditions are calling for it. We linked up for a great day of surf a few weeks ago somewhere in Monmouth County, and Matt brought his A game. Thomas Larney
Dylan Goodale, Belmar Pro. New Jersey hosts the Belmar Pro each fall and usually draws a deep pool of competitors from local pros to WQS hopefuls. This year it was a Qualifying Series event, which brought the best of the best. Here’s Dylan Goodale getting ready to stick his landing. Thomas Larney
Roy Webber slice. Royce is a humble underground ripper from Long Beach Island. Every time Roy’s in the lineup he makes his presence known with explosive stamps like this. Thomas Larney
Temporary gold mine. Sometimes temporary set ups turn into gold mines. I can’t wait to see this place light up when we get a real solid swell. Thomas Larney
Timmy Britt. Here's Timmy finding shade somewhere in North Jersey. Thomas Larney
Tom Sherf, Hurricane Joaquin. Hurricane Joaquin certainly didn’t deliver the goods we were all hoping for in NJ. I took a trip down to Cape May with a few buddies and, for the most part, we got skunked. However, Tom Sherf found a few fun sections to play hide and seek. Thomas Larney
Jody Davis. Floridian charger Jody Davis and his best friend Gabe Kling both married Jersey girls, so they make a few treks up to the Garden State each year. Luckily for Jody, he picked the right time to visit this summer. I’m looking forward to linking up with these two this winter. Thomas Larney
Ready for battle. 5 mm wetsuits, boots, and gloves with a deafening hood is often a struggle. But to most NJ surfers, especially the ones I know, they wouldn’t have it any other way. The struggle is real, but often worth every second. Here's Conor Willem preparing for battle. Thomas Larney
Pete Machotka sniper tower. Pete is a great role model and example of a blue collar, amateur sponsored surfer. He works crazy hours for the county to support his wife and two daughters, and still finds time to get in the water whenever he can. Take notes, kids. Thomas Larney
Living in New Jersey certainly has its perks. First and foremost, we get to experience all four seasons to their full potential. From summer heat waves and flat spells to refreshing crisp fall air and beautiful changing colors, we quickly move to below-freezing, snow-filled winters, then thawing out with rain and inconsistent temperatures in the spring. New Jersey also has so much variety in things to do and places to visit. Depending where in New Jersey you’re located, you are within a two- to three-hour drive from just about everything.
As any East Coast surfer knows, the best window of surf is from September to May, or from fall to spring. Generally, the colder the air and water become, the better the surf gets. In Jersey, we go from surfing crowded, two-foot south wind slop most of the summer in board shorts, to pulling into well overhead, backbreaking tubes in five-mil suits, gloves, and boots a few short months later. Because of its somewhat inconsistent weather patterns, surf forecasting plays a major role in finding the best waves. Luckily, we are only a short trip to many different breaks that all offer more lined up surf in different swell and wind directions. The numerous amounts of jetties and piers also help maximize conditions in a lot of areas. When it’s on, New Jersey is one of the heaviest beach breaks in the world, and it often turns world-class during the late fall and winter months.
There’s a populated but talented group of photographers that call the Garden State home, and each one usually has its core group of rippers they work with. I’m usually on the map with LBI kingpins Randy Townsend, Conor Willem, and Pete Machotka, but I always enjoy grabbing a session and meeting new folks. There isn’t a ton of versatility as far as foreground and background shots in Jersey are concerned, so I always try to find new angles and heights to grab a unique frame of what the Atlantic has to offer. Although I don’t get to surf as much as I used to, I am a junkie for shooting film and photography. I find nailing the shot as rewarding as making a tube or landing and air reverse. My goal is to continue to stay inspired, keep enjoying what I do, and get people stoked on my work. And if you’re not having fun doing something, what’s the point of doing it? I haven’t had the privilege to travel outside the East Coast to shoot yet, but I’m hoping that changes very soon. Live the search. Here is a small selection from the several different faces of New Jersey. Enjoy!
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