From Surgery to Shooting: Surf Photography Saved My Life
This might sound cliché and might also be hard for some people to understand, but photography basically saved my life.
My Buddy Martin Cabada, just making sure. Yup, they're all over. Photo: Robb Wilson
Empty death nugget. Photo: Robb Wilson
One of Santa Cruz's newest dads and finest shredders. Buddy Freitas. Photo: Robb Wilson
Somehow. Photo: Robb Wilson
Griffin Colapinto, slicing and dicing the crowds at Rincon, Ca. Photo: Robb Wilson
Matti Passaquindici. Rail game and crowd control all in one. Photo: Robb Wilson
It's the simple things in life. Photo: Robb Wilson
One of the best sixteen year olds in the world, Kanoa Igarashi. Photo: Robb Wilson
Timmy Reyes isn't around home much, but when he is, he's always amazing to watch. Here he is, jet lagged, injured and charging shore pound bowls. Photo: Robb Wilson
Ventura's Matt McCabe sending it BIG at one of his many home arenas. Photo: Robb Wilson
Eveline VanBrand. As graceful as they come. Photo: Robb Wilson
Nat Young rips at home too! Photo: Robb Wilson
This day was off the hook. One of the best days of the year for sure. Newport Beach, Ca. Photo: Robb Wilson
One of many many tubes for Jarred Mell on this fine offshore day in Southern California. Photo: Robb Wilson
This day worked out kind of cool. East Coaster Vince Boulanger and I, despite the lack of swell had a hunch that a little sand bar might be happening. When we got there, It was really small, but it was uncrowded and there was some little wedges coming in. We went out, had some fun and nailed this cool little nugget. Photo: Robb Wilson
Ladies and Gentleman, Santa Cruz's Noah Wegrich taking it to the lips of Lowers on a visit to Southern California. Photo: Robb Wilson
I'm pretty sure this body boarder is having a rad day. Photo: Robb Wilson
This is my 15 year old friend Sean"Woodzy" Woods. He's from North Los Angeles County, Ca and he surfs better than you. Photo: Robb Wilson
Noah "Waggy" Wegrich teaching the youth some backhand assault tactics in Hawaii. Photo: Robb Wilson
12-year-old Sage Burke from Newport Beach is good at getting barreled. Photo: Robb Wilson
I was born in the Philippines and moved to Long Beach, California, when I was around four years old. Long Beach is a very diverse city with a lot to offer. I’ve been surfing my whole life, but I’ve also been plagued with back problems. I’ve had eight back surgeries and three hip surgeries – all surfing and snowboarding related. This ultimately led to me discovering a new passion: photography. It started off as just a way to stay connected to the ocean as well as my friends and family that surf. In fact, I started shooting photos from the water before I ever took photos on land. This might sound cliché and might also be hard for some people to understand, but photography basically saved my life.