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I won't tell you where this wave is, but let's just say it is not Sydney. The locals here love this place and I wish to return so out of respect, I won't name it. This wave was just insane and this was when I has fresh stitches in my foot. Seeing these peel off was killing me not being able to get in the water, but I think I made it look pretty inviting this way. Any surfer could nail this wave. It was crazy fun. Photo: Nate Smith from Highlights from the Weirdest Year Ever
Spring is in the air. Things are either warming up, or on the verge of warming up. We’re on the tail end of a (unless you live in California) pretty incredible year, swell-wise. Jaws went more XXL than ever. Mavericks exploded. Hercules smashed Europe. Pipeline saw perfection. A new world champ was crowned. Someone might’ve ridden the biggest wave ever ridden. Brigid smashed Europe again. California lay dormant, except for a few pulses here and there – amazing, perfect pulses. And in between, a whole whack of smaller swells banged their way around the world. Enjoy your spring… but enjoy this look back at winter first.