I photographed the Wedge this summer for the first time. I don't think I've ever seen a beach more crowded than this one. This from the weekend before Marie hit. Photo: Kevin Jansen
Jamie's first wave this session he broke the nose off his board, paddled back out, and caught this wave. Photo: Kevin Jansen
Wil Reid. Almost barreled. The Wedge. Photo: Kevin Jansen
Jamie on a borrowed board after his short, half board session. Photo: Kevin Jansen
Few things in this world compare to beating the sun up, especially when the waves are firing. Photo: Kevin Jansen
Early morning bottom turn. Malibu, CA. Photo: Kevin Jansen
Mike Siorda. Dawn patrolling one of the South Bay's secret spots. Photo: Kevin Jansen
Shane Borland. Cutback. The day after Hurricane Marie hit. Malibu, CA. Photo: Kevin Jansen
This is from Santa Cruz. I took this photo of someone I didn't know who had a great style. Thanks to the world wide web, the surfer found the photo. He was stoked to get a shot of him riding his dad's board he bought new in the 60's. Photo: Kevin Jansen
Matt and Mike Pagan. Matt is on the surfboard and Mike is behind the lens. They make some incredible stuff together. Photo: Kevin Jansen
I love summer, but I’m happy that it’s over. The beaches are too crowded, the sunburns are too severe, and the burned bottoms of feet are painful.
I know these are all problems that can be easily solved, but that’s not the point. I simply like fall and winter better. The mornings are cold and coffee is always acceptable. At least, I think it’s always acceptable. I’m excited for that. That being said, here are my favorite shots from this summer. I met some amazing people and was able to see some amazing waves.