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Sunrise from a secret spot on the North Shore. When it is good, often I swim out in the dark and get out of the water five hours later. Photo: Clark Little.
If there’s one thing all surfers can agree on, it’s that the view from inside a little shack is pretty much the best thing ever. Even if you’re not making it out, that fleeting glimpse is worth the flogging. So get your clicking gloves on. If you click fast enough, you might trick yourself into thinking you’re not staring at a computer screen.