Just one more wave, right? Good luck... Photo: Paul Ferraris
“One more wave, and I’m going in,” I think to myself when I know I should be making tracks.
After that one, I think, “That last wave was a good one. Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one, I think, “Hmm, there’s still half an hour of tide left, maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “That last one was a bit bigger, perhaps there’s a new pulse of swell. Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “Wow, I’m surfing like a demon – can’t waste this talent. Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “The wind’s dropped. It’s glassing off. Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “I’ve not dedicated enough waves to my wife/daughter/mum/deceased dad. Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “People are getting out. More waves for me. Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “I don’t know when my next surf will be. What if it’s not for weeks? Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “This spot is threatened by development, or climate change. I need to fill my boots while it’s still here. Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “I really stuffed up the take-off on that one. I’ve got to have another go. Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “I’m getting cold. Soon I’ll be getting frostbite. Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “It’s getting dark but I can still see the lines coming in. Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “What’s that shadow in the water? Could it be a shark? I’m going in.”