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Kelly Slater gets excited about surfing. An understatement? Of course. But Kelly Slater, world titles and all, has surf heroes and dream waves, just like Joe Average surfing out front. One of those idols is Gerry Lopez, a man who knows the inside of a tube better than Joe Average. Kelly has a story about Gerry Lopez’s tube-riding, and like most things Gerry Lopez says, it’s simple and complicated at the same time.
“I heard this story about @gerrylopezsurfboards going to Kirra in the ’70s,” Slater wrote on Instagram. “The guys asking him how he rode the tube so well and he said something to the effect of, ‘Put your front hand in the middle of the barrel in front of you and follow it’.