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This is me riding a log. It’s a moving dance floor that allows a surfer to express their grace, strength, and intuition at the same time. It’s no easy feat to move a board that can be 9’5 and weighing over 25 pounds into the most critical part of the wave. When a surfer says about nose riding: It feels like flying. They are telling the truth. If you’ve flown in your dreams, you know what it feels like in your stomach. That feeling has only been mimicked by nose riding. Its weightless. Photo: @shelleydark
Editor’s Note: #LogDaze is a brand new series featuring some of the world’s most radical longboard visuals. Second in the series is Leah Dawson.
The technicality and strength required to peacefully hold those ten little piggies over the nose doesn’t come easily. It required a lot of focus, as well as an internal dialogue of complete encouragement. It’s my goal to get to that natural ease—the mindless state of ultimate flow. Hanging ten utilizes muscles in the legs, core, feet and toes, and one’s style is greatly determined by the placement of their hands. As a ballerina would do, the study to bring hyper-awareness to body positioning while moving with a wave feels like it has just begun, but I still have an everlasting song to dance to. Harmony never felt so good.