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Lauren Hill has always surfed. Since the first time I saw her when we were 14 in Florida, longboarding up and down on a single fin, nose riding, and never moving her hands above her hips. She always looks in control. She has been an inspiration since that first time. In surfing, in life, in her writings, in her perspective... Photo: @thedrifterblog
Editor’s Note: #LogDaze is a brand new series featuring some of the world’s most radical longboard visuals. Second in the series is Leah Dawson.
The technicality and strength required to peacefully hold those ten little piggies over the nose doesn’t come easily. It required a lot of focus, as well as an internal dialogue of complete encouragement. It’s my goal to get to that natural ease—the mindless state of ultimate flow. Hanging ten utilizes muscles in the legs, core, feet and toes, and one’s style is greatly determined by the placement of their hands. As a ballerina would do, the study to bring hyper-awareness to body positioning while moving with a wave feels like it has just begun, but I still have an everlasting song to dance to. Harmony never felt so good.