It took a couple sessions and a good single fin for me to realize that there is an infinite amount of beauty in the mastery of surfing a small wave creatively.
Classic Ventura evening with Troy Mothershead. Photo: Dylan Gordon
Early morning Malibu low tide slides. Photo: Dylan Gordon
Kassia makes any wave look like a fun one. Photo: Dylan Gordon
Besides maybe a beer between sets, what more could you ask for? Photo: Dylan Gordon
Low tides, logs, a buddy or two and you've got a good time in the making. The waves don't have to be pumping to justify going out. Photo: Dylan Gordon
Looking forward to many more times like these. Photo: Dylan Gordon
The style is in the simplicity. Photo: Dylan Gordon
We loaded up a half-cab Tacoma pickup truck with a mattress in the back, surf and skateboards on top, beers in the middle and five of us spread throughout on a 1600 mile trip through scorching hot desert to get from California to Texas. Didn't get the waves we imagined from the hurricane we chased, but we had a hell of a time making the best of what we found. Photo: Dylan Gordon
Karina Rozunko in Malibu, having a dance. Photo: Dylan Gordon
One of my favorite surf photographers is also damn good on a log. Dane Peterson enjoying a Malibu morning. Photo: Dylan Gordon
Troy Mothershead. Ten toes on the nose. Photo: Dylan Gordon
If this fella had more style, it'd be criminal. Matt Cuddihey on a summer evening slide. Photo: Dylan Gordon
Troy Mothershead is a stand up human being and absolutely kills it on a log. If there's ever a person to jump in with for a road trip, sit down for a beer with or paddle out with, it's this fella. Photo: Dylan Gordon
Big Steve, as legendary as they come. Photo: Dylan Gordon
California isn't such a bad place to call home. Photo: Dylan Gordon
Not an uncommon sight when Mr. Mothershead is in the water. Photo: Dylan Gordon
Boards + friends + tents + beers = a life well lived. Photo: Dylan Gordon
Matt Grote and his hand-shaped quiver of reject blanks, each one with a bit of magic brought to life by his keen eye and curious mind. Photo: Dylan Gordon
I never really understood the beauty of logging until this year’s flat spell. It took a couple sessions and a good single fin for me to realize that there is an infinite amount of beauty in the mastery of surfing a small wave creatively.
You can have as good of a time seeking out one footers with a few good friends as you can waiting for the 50-year storm. It’s all in how you look at it. Plus, it’ll get you in the water a hell of a lot more. This realization made this past summer an unforgettable one and introduced me to a whole new world of amazing people. I cannot wait to spend the years to come hunting down more micro perfection with them.