I never really understood the beauty of logging until this year’s flat spell. It took a couple sessions and a good single fin for me to realize that there is an infinite amount of beauty in the mastery of surfing a small wave creatively.
You can have as good of a time seeking out one footers with a few good friends as you can waiting for the 50-year storm. It’s all in how you look at it. Plus, it’ll get you in the water a hell of a lot more. This realization made this past summer an unforgettable one and introduced me to a whole new world of amazing people. I cannot wait to spend the years to come hunting down more micro perfection with them.
See more of Dylan’s work here.