Nathan Florence spends as much time as he can surfing the biggest waves he can find. When a giant swell shows up on his doorstep, chances are very good that he’s going to be there, and he’s going to be there with a huge grin on his face. He’s been through a lot of Jaws swells, but the one that hit on the weekend in mid-January was something else. Nate, in fact, called it “the biggest Jaws swell of our lives.” Which is saying a lot. An awful lot.
Learn to push yourself, keep calm, and manage fear in heavy surf with Mark Healey’s Guide to Heavy Water.