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I won't tell you where this wave is, but let's just say it is not Sydney. The locals here love this place and I wish to return so out of respect, I won't name it. This wave was just insane and this was when I has fresh stitches in my foot. Seeing these peel off was killing me not being able to get in the water, but I think I made it look pretty inviting this way. Any surfer could nail this wave. It was crazy fun. Photo: Nate Smith
Editor’s Note: We’ve chosen to focus our relaunch around the theme: EVOLVE. Transformation is core to who we are, and we put it out to The Inertia’s influencers and most talented contributors to share moments that caused significant personal growth and transformation – ideally with some relation to surfing, but also to life in general. These are Nate Smith’s moments.
I can recall when I was really young always being mesmerized by what my mates where doing on a wave as I’d paddle back out – sitting and watching them blow the tail or get barreled. I thought those would make amazing photos. So there was my solution for the next few months. Fifteen odd years later, and I’m still doing it. Funny, yet cool, how things work out.
See more from Nate at NateSmithPhoto.com