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I though I was going to get skunked on this trip. On my last night a storm rolled through and the next morning I woke up to this fun right reef break. The tricky part was figuring out how to get out through the reef, eventually followed a fisherman though a channel about a quarter mile away. Image: Ferraris
I don’t really consider myself a surf photographer; I take photos of my daily life. Which often means surfing or traveling with my wife and two daughters in search of surf. Modern surf photography and the angles and images that are coming out en mass today are mind blowing. I can’t keep up with that. I’m happy to shoot off a few thoughtful rolls of film on a surf trip and see if any magic happens. I’m still somewhat obsessed with film and I usually carry a couple of film cameras around. I don’t follow pros, in fact I avoid them – instead I am constantly searching for solitude away from crowds and for this reason my best images are usually pulled back. To fund my lifestyle, I teach high school photography in San Francisco.
