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Rise and Shine: A Surf Poem

In memory of Andy Irons, enjoy this poem called “Rise and Shine.”

Rise and shine. Photo: Mark McInnis

Rise and shine. Photo: Mark McInnis

DFW Airport Hotel

Was not a big deal

Just a short time between two waves

A swell

Spread over thousands of kilometers by the force of its own destiny

At the horizon of a wild night

The passage of a shadow line an

Unspeakable violence

The celebration of a myth my literary maneuvers and

The metal again

Firing guitars the impulses of modern surfing

A last flight

The hammer in the air and the shock

On the wave

Slashes and cuts

Strength and steam

The life of a surfer: working distances

For the best surfer in the world is nothing without a good wave

Said Kelly Slater

Iron

(S)

Was an explosive mixture

His ashes were scattered in the Pacific

On november

When?