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Rob Machado Talks Board Design (and Surfing the Wrong Board at Big Teahupoo)

He sat down with Shred Show and talked story for 15 minutes full of that classic Machado wisdom.

Rob Machado surfs better than pretty much anyone else on the planet. He’s a mix of soul, flair, function, and good ol’ fashioned talent, all wrapped up into one droopy-eyed, long haired drink of water. Like most great surfers, he’s got a firm grasp on what makes surfboards do what they do–those fine little tweaks that make a surfboard not just good, but great. He’s also got that everyman mentality, using boards with less rocker and more foam. But since he’s Rob Machado, he surfs those small-wave boards at places like Teahupoo. “It’s always funny,” he remembers, “because you go out on a board like that on a day like that, and it’s your turn; you’re sitting out the back, you’ve been waiting a while… and the set of the day comes in. And you’re on the wrong board.”

When he created the Almond Butter with Firewire, he wanted a hybrid that combined a shortboard’s sensitivity with a fish’s speed.  He sat down with Shred Show and talked story for 15 minutes full of that classic Machado wisdom.