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The Encyclopedia of Surfing: 8 Parts That I’m Not Sick Of

It was a three-year forced commando march to get this bastard of a project online. I loved it. Except when I hated it. Yet many parts of EOS, a surprisingly big number in fact, still sparkle, even to my jaded yellowing eyes. Here are eight of them.

BY Matt Warshaw |

It was a three-year forced commando march to get this bastard of a project online. I loved it. Except when I hated it. Yet many parts of EOS, a surprisingly big number in fact, still sparkle, even to my jaded yellowing eyes. Here are eight of them.

dora4: Bruce Brown interviews Mickey Dora

Duke contest, I think 1966. I love how Dora, in the beginning, holds up his fists for a second or two, Cassius Clay style. I can’t think of any other photo film bit where the man looks so relaxed and happy. So many other things to enjoy here. No logo on Dora’s T-shirt. Bruce Brown’s flaming-white eyebrows. The phrase “California technique riding.” All that water moving across the reef at Sunset Beach in the background. God, please somebody invent a time machine before I die so I can back and fully indulge this moment of nostalgia.

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