For this one-day swell, I saw an insane backside barrel, one of the saddest wipeouts ever, and some of the biggest sets I’ve seen all year here in L.A. Oh yeah, it was 41 degrees when I woke up but it was well worth bundling up for. I think the surfers in the water were actually warmer than I was. Let’s hope this kicks off many more good-sized winter swells.
You can find more from Brad Jacobson on his YouTube channel.