Make no mistake, I’m not telling you to rush out and come surf The Wedge. People die here. Seasoned pros get their asses handed to them.
Bobby Okvist is perfectly at home in the belly of the beast at the Wedge. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
An unknown bodyboarder gets tossed in a backwash explosion. These guys take the hardest, most regular beatings of anyone out there. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Jamie O'Brien came all the way from Hawaii to find out what Wedge is all about. Here he tries to find a safe way to exit out. Hint: there is none. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Bobby Okvist and I link up for a number of shots here. This one of Bobby launching to mental heights over a mutant closeout is my finalist image from the 2013 Red Bull Illume contest. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Not too long ago Brad Ettinger found that elusive, perfect shack at Wedge. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
To me, this photo of Morgan Craig dropping a steep, sunlit, early morning peak tells a perfect story of the illusion that is surfing at Wedge. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
This photo shares a more realistic version of Wedge... Local big wave charger Spencer Pirdy warms up for Maverick's by taking beatings like this at home. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Except for maybe the light of a speed blur at sunset. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
It’s not advisable to go right at the Wedge. Just ask Damien Fahrenfort. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Steep, quick drop are the norm as the waves refract and double-up. Bobby Okvist's got it figured out (most of the time). Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
You've always got to be on the lookout for backwash at a shore breaking wave like the Wedge. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Not all waves barrel at the Wedge; many become a massive wall and chase you towards shore. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
A famiiar sight at Pipe: Jamie O grabbing rail. Looks good at Wedge too. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Heavy shorebreak makes for some violent explosions at the water's edge. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Watching tourists get drenched when a massive wall of whitewater zips up the beach and crests the steep bank is nearly as entertaining as watching the action in the water. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Bodyboarding big wave legend Josh Garner keeps an eye conditions and shows up occasionally to carve through a perfect, near-shore barrels. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
It’s pretty common to get hung-up in a heavy lip. Spencer Pirdy’s made an art of airdropping from these. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
You can get some amazing, unique angles and looks shooting water here. The ever-expanding army of GoPro's is testament to that. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Dropping at the Wedge is never a smooth ride. You can see the refracting wave's path in the surface texture as it moves up the face of this peak Morgan Craig is dropping. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Waves are thick and heavy. If an outright closeout doesn't squash you, a chandelier just might. Bobby O making the split second decision to clench and hold his line into the closeout instead of being guillotined going for the doggy-door. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Spencer Pirdy illustraiting the dead-zone, where you don’t have enough speed to outrun the closeout behind you, and the currents ripping out from the all-too-close shore stop you dead in your tracks. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Thanks to news vans posting up at dawn over the past couple years and reporting live to all the local morning, mid-day, and evening news shows, a big day at the Wedge has become a huge spectator event. Good luck finding parking. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
At 1/800th of a second the Wedge can open up perfectly like it has here for Kris Camacho, before shutting down just as quickly. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Why bail out the back when you can air out with style instead? For Nathan Fletcher, a smaller day like this in knee-high water is the perfect time to play. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
As much as the massive, peaking, heaving waves we get on the biggest swells, the colors and textures at sunset on a medium size swell keep me coming back to the Wedge time and time again. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
Things move fast at the Wedge. This wave peaked and broke before Spencer Pirdy could fully stand- and it's still this massive as he charges down the face. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
If you can just see a wave breaking above the steep bank from across the beach, you can bet it's close to a stand-up barrel. As heavy but breaking closer to shore and in shallower water, sometimes those can be more treacherous than the 25-footers. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
The bigger the wave here, the harder it is to get that classic, over-head barreling watershot; you're more focused on survival. Note that little black dot towards the bottom right of the wave: that's a bodyboarder. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
The early morning light can paint these hollow, close-out barrels like nothing else. Photo: Benjamin Ginsberg
The Wedge is not a good wave. Sorry, but you’re most likely not going to score a perfect barrel here. You’ll be lucky to make it out of one. Whether you’re J.O.B. or a hardcore local, brace for impact because getting tossed is a guarantee. Despite all that, you could just have the ride of your life.
Make no mistake, I’m not telling you to rush out and come surf The Wedge. People die here. Seasoned pros get their asses handed to them. It’s big, heavy, shallow, cold, and dangerously close to shore and the rock jetty. Knowing when it will break is not the same as knowing when it will be breaking.
I don’t care. It’s still one of my favorite waves in the world.
A session at The Wedge is the best combination of adrenaline-filled action and a carnage reel. At any given big swell, refracting waves double-up for impossibly steep drops; massive backwash explosions will either launch you to the air or completely obliterate you; 20-foot plus walls of water chase you towards a shore you can never quite reach because of raging, river-like rip currents; four-to-five times overhead barrels closeout on top of you when it’s waist deep if you’re lucky; and if you’re likely to win the lottery, you may find a doggy-door out of one.
Summer is on its way, and for those brave enough and skilled enough to grab a surfboard, bodyboard, skimboard, or a pair of swim fins and a speedo (as the local, die-hard bodysurfers are wont to do), it’s an adrenaline rush like no other. I’ll be glued to my reports from the guys at Solspot, long lens in one hand, waterhousing in the other.
The local news crews have taken to posting up and reporting live all day whenever there’s even a remote chance of waves, so expect it to be crowded like a heat with Kelly at Pipe and tempers to be short.