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This is a wave they call the Yeti. It's been there for who knows how long but people are really starting to push it there. That wave makes a really scary noise when it breaks: it's the sound of the weight of water. There's this deep growl when a wave breaks and is this big and heavy. It's the ocean groaning. Photo: Matt Clark
Remember when the Romans in the Coliseum used to give a thumbs up or a thumbs down to Gladiators that were facing death? Probably not, because you weren’t alive. But I’d bet dollars to donuts that the thumbs down was the more popular option. If it bleeds, it leads, right? But you know what what else I’d bet on? If that crowd gave a thumbs down, and somehow, by some incredible heroics, the Gladiator escaped the swinging sword of the death-dealer, the crowd would go WILD. That’s what a lot of the surfers in the photos above do: escape that swinging sword. And yes, we go wild.