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Mark has made more trips out West than most, and we were lucky enough to share a solo session at a secluded slab. Location – well you're not going to hear it from me. Photo: Russell Ord
Remember when the Romans in the Coliseum used to give a thumbs up or a thumbs down to Gladiators that were facing death? Probably not, because you weren’t alive. But I’d bet dollars to donuts that the thumbs down was the more popular option. If it bleeds, it leads, right? But you know what what else I’d bet on? If that crowd gave a thumbs down, and somehow, by some incredible heroics, the Gladiator escaped the swinging sword of the death-dealer, the crowd would go WILD. That’s what a lot of the surfers in the photos above do: escape that swinging sword. And yes, we go wild.