tahiti_may_2_wade_goodale
You can't see him in this frame but Wade Goodale is in that barrel. The heaviest thing I have ever seen. Tahiti at twenty foot is next level and these guys go on waves that don't even make sense. Heroes in my book. Photo: Seth de Roulet
Remember when the Romans in the Coliseum used to give a thumbs up or a thumbs down to Gladiators that were facing death? Probably not, because you weren’t alive. But I’d bet dollars to donuts that the thumbs down was the more popular option. If it bleeds, it leads, right? But you know what what else I’d bet on? If that crowd gave a thumbs down, and somehow, by some incredible heroics, the Gladiator escaped the swinging sword of the death-dealer, the crowd would go WILD. That’s what a lot of the surfers in the photos above do: escape that swinging sword. And yes, we go wild.