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Most of the fishermen are already offshore by dawn, but there is always a few stragglers to give some depth to a shot. Local ambience that we tend to take for granted. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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The cauldron. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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Dancing at dawn. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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Heavy fog and I couldn’t get a lens lock, even close to shore. Finally, it burned off enough to capture this single frame just as he snuck under the drip line. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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Exploration is driving hours down a dirt road, hiking to what might be a spot - not knowing for sure. A moment of elation, then a hike back to the van, returning with everything you think you might need for an extended session on that wave…or the wave that could be just around the next cove. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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Triple overhead and the surfer got up too high and lost the drive. The wave overcame him in 1/2 second. One minute he was there and the next, completely swallowed by the foam ball - it happened so fast it didn’t seem real.Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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The Freedom Chaser. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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The seeker. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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The light during a hurricane swell is nearly as intense as the waves, Ominous to a point of being palatable. The waves also get this strange veined quality - like a slice of prosciutto. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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Morning of the Earth tribute - hours into exploring foggy back roads, we stumbled upon this unknown and menacing setup. The angle and blur gave this a shot a vintage feel, hence the tribute. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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Respect to the mothership. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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Not lost at sea. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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A storm trooper set - moments before unleashing it’s fury against a ridiculously inadequate man made seawall. 8 inch asphalt flutters across the sky, rocks fly like confetti. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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A few minutes after this breach, the police shut down all road access and the seawall collapsed. These guys never even looked back. I stayed tucked in some bushes next to one of the beach houses and got another hour of photos while the police patrolled the street. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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The sessions sometimes blend together, but the camaraderie on the sidewalk always sticks with me. I usually skip the last few waves and make sure to leave enough time to bask in the afterglow with friends. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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Where the wild things are. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
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The wrecking ball. Photo: Christopher Gauthier
In 1975, a couple dollar bills were stuffed in an envelope addressed to Popular Mechanics. A few days later, a fold ’n paste pinhole camera arrived. Shooting landscapes and stills on a pinhole, you learn about lines and composition the hard way. Patience and discipline.
Surfing is difficult to shoot. With landscapes, portraits or still life, you can compose lines and wait for the light. Whereas most sports are performed on a stationary playing field, surfing is shot against an ever-changing canvas of light refraction and line composition. Light and composition are the king. An epic ride with poor light or background distractions goes straight to the b-roll bin.
This part is discipline.
Meanwhile, there is a comforting cycle that comes with the seasons. Seasons build stamina. Rest and relax in the summer, keep moving during the flat spells.
This part is patience.
Pre and post-session camaraderie are essential in the cold months. Muscle memory for your camera matters when you are leaning into an ice-filled wind, swapping out batteries or changing f-stops. You can teach somebody how to dress properly but not everyone can handle the mind game you play when battling the cold. Born and bred or genetically wired. Either way, hostile environments best be in your blood because a wave pool in Texas this is not.
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