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This is a rivermouth wave in Nicaragua where I broke my leash one or two waves after a long paddle out and had an even longer swim in to find my board. Photo: Matt Degreff.
For some reason I’ve captured a lot of my favorite days on film. Maybe I need to bring it along more often. This is a collection of some of those days, caught on 35mm. Enjoy!
For more from Matt, check out his website.