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This is one of the better right reef points in the area, and on its day one of the best in Indo. It works best with glassy conditions or winds opposite to those preferred for Nemberala Point. Image: Murphy
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Me on a glassy one. Photo taken with a telephoto by my partner Gary Burns from a boat in the channel. There is always a boat waiting in the channel. Image: Burns
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This is the same wave as that long right line up shot but on a small fun glassy day, water crystal clear. I believe my brother did an albatross and fell on his ass. Image: Murphy
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This long exposure of the restaurant & bar almost looks like a painting, but somehow really gets across the relaxed mood. Image: Murphy
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View of the main point at Nemberala from the channel on an average small to mid-size swell. Image: Murphy
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My friend Matt Murphy (no relation) with a 90 lb dog tooth tuna caught on the last day of the trip on 40lb line and a white taddy jig. Well done! Image: Murphy
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Barry Hilton on Day one of our trip wishing he brought a second board. This photo was shot approximately one hour after he said “ I only need one board. I had this one shaped extra thick with extra glass to be super strong.” Image: Murphy
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Nemberala has 4 or 5 sections depending on who you talk to; some of which often link up for super long rides. This is inside the Magic Mountain section further down the point. Image: Murphy
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Shallow. But gorgeous. Image: Murphy
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Image: Murphy
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Another perfect one comes through. Image: Murphy
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At low tide it becomes easy to walk the beach for miles and get around the small headlands. This local boat is actually in excellent working condition. Image: Murphy
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The main point at Nemberala on a good swell, late in the afternoon. Somehow it seems the last two hours of the day seem to have the best light and surface texture every day. On the flip side, for those who don’t mind surfing in the mid day sun there is often the option of a solo session. Image: Murphy
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This photo is taken at Chocolate Lake in the center of the island; a great two hour mountain bike excursion. My brother and I with local fisherman. Image: Murphy
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There are roads like this and single track trails all over the island. The coastal road is flat and goes for miles, or you can head up hill for a bit more exercise and views. Wear shoes, my brother was ill prepared. Bikes available for guest use at the resort. Image: Murphy
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This photo of the main point was not taken on our trip, but I wanted to include it just to show how it really holds size. In the 16 years I have been traveling to Nemberala I have never seen it close out, nor have I ever heard it was too big to handle the swell. Image: Murphy
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This is Janets, a local bar in town a short walk from the Resort. A nice place to watch the world go by; good burgers and fairly cold beer for a change of pace. Image: Murphy
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Nemberala Beach Resort Restaurant filled with my friends and family. I try to lead at least one group every year. Meal Plan: early breakfast, full cooked late breakfast, lunch, happy hour appetizers followed by 3+ course dinner. Nobody goes hungry or loses weight without extreme willpower. Image: Murphy
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Never ending activities, but the most popular is the mid day lounge around the pool. Image: Murphy
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This is my favorite photo from the trip, and possibly favorite photo of me ever. How many people get to paddle out to an empty line up like this. I snuck out early while everybody was sleeping. My brother is still upset with me! Image: Murphy
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Local kids dive for lobster and octopus with homemade goggles. Image: Murphy
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Generally one night a week we have music after dinner; sometimes traditional music, sometimes more modern music, occasionally a band all the way from Kupang – no matter what the band, guests are always welcome to sit in. Image: Murphy
Rote is a small island in the Nusa Tengarra region of Indonesia, Southwest of Timor and a world away from the increasingly overrun surfing areas of Bali, Sumatra and the Maldives. On the southwest side of the island, the Nemberala Beach Resort offers thoroughly modern tropical lodging with access to a half dozen plus, top-quality reefs.
The nation of Timor has a long, interesting and sometimes troubled history. Timor is where Captain Bligh ended his impossible 3600-mile crossing in a small boat after the mutiny on the Bounty in 1789. (If the photos have already sold you and you are packing for Rote and need a good book, the Bounty Trilogy is fascinating and appropriate to the area.
Timor was divided between the Dutch and the Portuguese for many centuries. Japanese forces occupied the whole island from 1942 to 1945. In 1975, the nation of Indonesia annexed East Timor and was proclaimed Indonesia’s 27th province. After a prolonged guerilla war East Timor won independence in 2002.
Rote is only 20 miles from the mainland but far removed from the past violent nation-making on the main island. The Nemberala Beach Resort is on the Southwest side of the island, facing into all that world-famous, well-traveled swell. Swell which originates in the turbulent storms of the Southern Ocean, organizes itself as it crosses into the Indian Ocean and arrives 4,000 miles later on the reefs of Rote, falling gracefully on a wide selection perfect reef setups.
Rote is not the area most people go looking when they go to Indonesia for surf. The five-acre beachfront property is located directly in front of the main break providing all rooms – along with the bar and restaurant – a view of the 300 plus yard long left reef/point which lies 500 yards off shore. The weather in the region is affected by the huge deserts of Northwest Australia and the Wallis line giving warm dry conditions almost year round except for a brief wet season from December to March. Given the marginal rainfall this area sees only a small fraction of the mosquitoes and insects that one would expect in the more northern areas. The predominant trade winds are southeast and blow off-shore at Nemberala most of the year. Given any break from the standard trade winds there are other waves in the region that work better on north, south or glassy conditions.
The bungalows feature a beautiful rock construction with louvered windows to keep the bungalows cool and breezy day and night. The central pool is a beautiful area to lay back with a drink and soak up the environment. The spa and games room are welcome distractions from the day’s activities. Surf transfers are provided on your schedule so you can choose when, how long, and how often you would like to surf. The four-duplex bungalows provide eight rooms each with a private bathroom. All rooms have running water and 24 hour electricity, the kitchen serves up four meals each day, a variety of western and Asian dishes.
Rote has empty sandy beaches for walking or thinking, 60 foot visibility for diving, world-class sport fishing, miles of dirt road for mountain biking and plenty of time to read the Bounty Trilogy.
Check out more from Waterways Travel here.
Find out more about Nemberala Beach Resort here.
