Big wave surfers have a very unique mindset. Dealing with the very real possibility of death on a daily basis takes a certain kind of person–and as surfers ride bigger and bigger waves, it’s become the norm to be a little more calculated about it than in years past. Shane Desmond sat down with Red Bull to go into a little more detail about exactly what it feels like to love something so much you’re willing to risk your life to do it.
“I Might Drown Right Now.” Shane Desmond on Dealing With Death
